internetwoodworking.com
Tool
Review:
The Delta 33-830
Radial
Arm Saw
Page 2Saw Provided by Klingspor's
Woodworking Shop
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Assembly of the saw takes no time at all, but the set up
process we'll go into further down this page is very time consuming!
One note about the construction of the saw's parts, the
elevating column is very solid on this guy, which is very important. Years
ago I had a 12" Craftsman RAS that got away from me once; the blade caught
and climbed up onto the 2 x 10 I was crosscutting and bent the elevating
column where it met the receiving sleeve!
The Cutting capacities are as follows (try getting these
numbers with your power miter saw!):
- Depth of Cut: 2-3/4"
- Depth of Cut at 45" Bevel: 2-1/2"
- Crosscut Width: 16"
- Rip Width: 26"
- Right Miter: 11"
- Left Miter: 10-1/2"
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Table brackets in place.
The table board is pre-drilled for the bolts you'll use to
attach the brackets and the bolts used for the height and leveling
adjustments.
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Nice tabletop cutting surface.
Shown here with only the primary table board, there are two
additional strips of board that make up the fence and the rear table
surface. The boards are made of standard particleboard, so you don't want
to set your coffee cup on it if you don't want an ugly raised ring! Some
people like to place a piece of 1/4" plywood over the particleboard
rather than cut into it. When the plywood is all hacked up, you just
replace that and don't have to replace the entire table board and go
through the leveling process again.
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Now to level the table...
You have to remove the blade guard and the blade, and turn
the arbor over to a vertical position to level the table. Find the highest
point of the table, and raise the tip of the arbor above the saw and a
spacer of some kind. Then you'll just move the saw head to the four
corners of the table and adjust the leveling screws until the spacer fits
the same at each. You may have to go back a few times while you rough it
in. You may also have to perform some fine-tuning again after you tighten
the table bracket bolts as it can cause the whole table assembly to move a
bit.
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The table leveling screws.
On the left you can see the heads of the screws that
hold the table to the table brackets (bottom) and the screws used
for leveling (top). In the picture to the right you can see how the
table brackets are bolted to the saw frame, and note how the leveling
screws work against the top of the frame to raise and lower the table. I
like the system here better than what I remember on the Craftsmans. It's
straight forward, and after making hundreds of cuts and banging around on
the table, it's still extremely level. Just like a good guitar staying in
tune! :-)
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